Raising Broilers on the Homestead

chick e1368644201224 275x300 Raising Broilers on the Homestead

a day-old Freedom Ranger Chick

We have been raising chickens for meat since we came to the farm about 13 years ago.  Some years we have raised as many as 150 but have since tempered our enthusiasm down to a more reasonable number of 50.  The economy of scale means that the 50 birds cost more per pound, but less stress and only growing what our family needs is worth its weight in gold.  In the beginning we raised Jumbo Cornish x but found that the leg problems and lack of grazing instinct made them a poor choice for our farm.  We purchase very healthy “Freedom Rangers” from a  hatchery in PA and they mail them as day-old chicks.  They reach a slaughter weight of 5 pounds dressed at 10-11 weeks, and my goal each year is to secure a slaughter date and be done with them by the 4th of July  (the smell of chicken manure in hot weather is mucho disgusto).  The chicks stay in the winter coop for the first 4 weeks (it’s available now since the laying hens have moved out to pasture in the Eggmobile)  are protected and kept snug in a brooder made from hay bales and a heat lamp.  chicks 300x225 Raising Broilers on the HomesteadAt 4 weeks we open the door and they discover the large grassy run and still have access to the indoors when they want it for shade, food and water.  For years we would transfer them into movable pens that we would drag around the pasture twice a day which was quite labor intensive but necessary for batches larger than 50.  Since we switched to smaller batches of Freedom Rangers they seem to be more motivated to seek the outdoors on their own and aren’t as addicted to the feeders so the coop and run work just fine.  We also used to be slaves to manually filling water founts but now use Little Giant auto water founts (sold by Stromberg’s) for both the layers and the meat birds, and the gadgets are worth the investment.

I have made feeding a science – here’s the chart for how many pounds of grain they get each day. Brooder schedule ’13 The Freedom Rangers don’t eat as much grain per day as the Cornish birds do, but they take an extra week to gain weight.  Last year we lost a few birds so we raised a total of 191 lbs of meat (whole birds).  Here’s how the costs breakdown:

50 chicks @1.95 + shipping = $97.50

Grain – 16 bags (50 lbs. Homestead natural grain 20% protein) @ $18 ea. = $288

Slaughter (we use a small family mobile processing company called VT Country Meats) = $267

Total cost (nothing for labor included) for 190.85 lbs. = $652.50 or $3.42/lb.

If you consider something for labor then call it $4.50/lb – not the least expensive chicken but we know exactly how it was raised, with fresh grass to run around on, fresh air to breathe, healthy grain to eat, and bugs to chase, and our girls gain the invaluable experience of learning how to care for other living creatures and where their food comes from.  All in all, a pretty good deal.

Lawns to Meadows – Tricks and Challenges

meadow Lawns to Meadows   Tricks and Challenges

We advocate the transition of lawns to meadows, especially on the outskirts of a property where lawns are not in actual use or are too large to mow with a zero-emissions electric mower.  Letting lawns grow up into “meadows” is a bit of a misnomer because there is no such thing as a natural meadow in VT (just deciduous forest that was cleared for agriculture) and the early successional plant communities that do exist on the edge of clearings don’t contain anything resembling turf grass species.  That being said, when we stop mowing lawns and introduce Northeast native species that provide food for caterpillars and pollinators (and thus increase biodiversity), we artificially create a “meadow-like” habitat while reducing carbon emissions – definitely a win-win.

Lots of clients ask me about the best method for converting lawns to meadows, and for good reason – there are tons of opinions about it out there.  You can remove all the turf grass manually (or chemically) and then hydroseed and plant plugs – or you can start with the easiest method – stop mowing.  You’d be surprised how quickly Asters, Asclepias (milkweed), and Solidago (goldenrod) seed themselves into the mix, and these are three of the top food sources listed by Doug Tallamy.  The trick is knowing how to manage it (with mowing and burning) so it doesn’t continue on its inevitable path to becoming deciduous forest, or become overrun with invasive species.

monarch Lawns to Meadows   Tricks and Challenges

One of the major challenges we face in converting lawns to meadows is ticks – tall grass is one of the deer tick’s favorite hang-outs.  Deer ticks prefer heavily-forested or dense brushy areas and edge vegetation, and use tall grass as a springboard to leap onto a host.  Think of them as nasty little circus performers.  Tim has had Lymes Disease twice, both times after visiting family in Pennsylvania, where deer tick populations are rampant.  He has worked outside in Vermont every day for the last 12 years and never been bitten by an infected deer tick here, but the climate is changing and winters are getting milder, so it’s good to be cautious.  According to this UVM fact sheet the number of cases has dramatically increased over the last few years.  So how can we manage our landscapes (and ourselves) to reduce our risk of being bitten and  still promote biodiversity?

The tick life cycle is about 2 years long and starts with larvae feeding primarily on small mammals (especially the white-footed mouse, other rodents, and insectivores). In May, larvae molt into nymphs and they aggressively bite humans.  Then nymphs molt into the adult stage in October.  Adults feed primarily on deer, but also attach to large mammals (foxes, raccoons, opossums, dogs) and humans.  Mowing vegetation with a bush-hog rotary mower has been shown to reduce adult deer tick populations by 70% (Wilson 1986), and to disrupt the breeding cycle, but the real question is how often, and at what time of year.  Tim Parsons has been carrying out a “No-Mow” or at least a “less-mow” experiment at Middlebury College since 2008, partly to reduce costs but also to increase biodiversity and reduce tick populations.  Here’s a link to one of his blog posts discussing that program.  He writes:

“in order to break the lifecycle of deer ticks, we will be mowing twice. Once will be right around commencement time, and again last thing in the fall. The late spring mowing coincides with a key breeding time for the deer tick, giving it no long grass for egg laying. It also cuts the fast growing grass down, to give the wildflowers a chance to grow and thrive. Look for this effect in hay fields in the summer. First cut is always real grassy, and the second cut all the clover and alfalfa seem to be the primary plants. The legumes were always there-it was just the grass growing faster in the spring choking out the others. The late fall mowing tidies up the grounds, exposing any late ticks, and spreads any wildflower seeds that may have formed.”

There are also lots of things you can do to protect yourself in addition to strategic mowing.  These habits include:

  • Wear light-colored clothing with a tight weave to spot ticks easily.
  • Wear enclosed shoes, long pants and a long-sleeved shirt. Tuck pant legs into socks or boots and shirt into pants. (Don’t worry, the field naturalist look is cool).
  • Consider using insect repellent on your clothes, especially below the knee.
  • Keep long hair tied back, especially when gardening.
  • Check clothes and any exposed skin frequently for ticks while outdoors and check again once indoors.
bobolink nest Lawns to Meadows   Tricks and Challenges

Bobolink nest in meadow

We think that strategic mowing can help reduce our exposure to ticks, but we also need to balance our risk with the needs of others, including pollinators and birds, that rely on early succession meadows for food and nesting.  Our only concern with the late spring mowing is that it can destroy Bobolink nests, so if we have seen evidence of them nesting in the area we delay the first mow until after the 4th of July.  Give us a call if you have specific questions about transitioning your lawn to meadow – we’d love to help.

Wilson, M.L. 1986. Reduced abundance of adult Ixodes dammini following destruction of vegetation. J. Econ. Entomol. 79: 693-696.

Let it Rain – Protecting Water Quality in VT

It’s been so dry and warm that many of our spring blooms are wilting!  You may want to add a rain barrel to your yard and if you hurry you might actually save some money – June 30th, 2013 is the deadline to qualify for financial reimbursement ($250-$500) to install a rain garden, cistern, or other LID practice on your property!  Here’s more information and an application:

VT “Let it Rain” 

 

If you live in the Champlain Basin and you want to help improve water quality in our streams and lakes, then please consider incorporating some of these practices into your yard.

GNPC Rain Garden v2 300x225 Let it Rain   Protecting Water Quality in VT

Creating Intriguing Woodland Gardens

Rhod prinophyllum 300x225 Creating Intriguing Woodland Gardens

Rhododendron prinophyllum (Roseshell Azalea) can handle a wider range of soils than other Rhodies, and is native in VT

Woodland gardens using native plants have incredible potential to reduce our carbon footprint, provide habitat, and absorb stormwater.  Deciduous forest is the climax stage of our landscape’s evolution in the Northeast, whether we like it or not.  As humans we resist thinking of ourselves as part of the natural systems that surround us, but at least here in Vermont that connection is still quite obvious (thank goodness), and in our gardens we can either fight against succession or go with the flow.

In general, going with the flow means less work and less maintenance, which is very popular with clients, yet sometimes I have a hard time selling the idea of a woodland garden because they’re afraid it might be boring.  Sure, the woodland garden is subtle and delicate and not riotous in color, but if it is crafted well it has more mystery and drama than a garden in the sun.  Creating a successful woodland garden is a complex orchestration of structure, framing and layers, texture and color, motion and light.  A landscape designer (like a stage director), can manipulate openings in the canopy to control how light plays on the floor and highlights features at different times of the day.  If you get it right the garden should blend into the backdrop but offer more controlled and concentrated doses of the features you love, whether they are sweeps of blue woodland phlox or dancing blooms of white Amelanchier in the understory.

trillium carpet 300x225 Creating Intriguing Woodland Gardens

Trillium grandiflorum in woods around Shelburne Pond, VT

I won’t go through the whole design process but I will describe the most basic principle in woodland gardens – layers.  Starting at the top there are five basic layers – canopy trees, understory trees, the shrub layer, the herbaceous layer, and ground covers.  A very good description of layers can be found in Rick Darke’s book “The American Woodland Garden”.  It’s one of my favorite resources because of Darke’s ecology-based philosophy, his design aesthetic, and his photographs.  As part of his research for the book he conducted a nearly twenty-year observation of seasonal changes in a stream-side woodland habitat in Pennsylvania, and illustrates the plants as characters in a slow but profound drama.

The plants for your woodland garden should be selected according to your own ecoregion but here are the top five in each layer that I use often in the Champlain Valley of VT – these are the stars of the woodland show, but keep in mind you also need supporting plants or it looks overdone.

Canopy trees - Betula nigra, Quercus bicolor, Quercus rubra, Acer rubrum, Ulmus Americana ‘Princeton’

Cercis 300x225 Creating Intriguing Woodland Gardens

Cercis canadensis (Eastern Redbud), native to southern NY and CT

 Understory trees – Amelanchier canadensis, Cornus alternifolia, Cercis canadensis, Carpinus caroliniana, Hamamelis virginiana

Shrub layer – Fothergilla major, Itea virginica, Rhododendron prinophyllum, Viburnum dentatum, Ilex verticillata

Herbaceous layer – Aster divaricatus, Geranium maculatum, Actaea racemosa, Heuchera villosa, Dicentra eximia

Mertensia virginica 300x225 Creating Intriguing Woodland Gardens

Mertensia virginica – an Appalachian native

Groundcovers – Tiarella cordifolia, Phlox stolonifera, Anemone canadensis, Dennstaedtia, Carex pennsylvanica

 

Schoolyard Habitats, Outdoor Classrooms & Natural Play Spaces

bean teepee 225x300 Schoolyard Habitats, Outdoor Classrooms & Natural Play SpacesI have always been a strong advocate of nature-based play for kids, but especially since I read Richard Louv’s Last Child in the Woods in 2005, the same year Gabbie was born.  (More about this in my previous post Raising Naturalists).  It may sound radical to some, but it is becoming more obvious to me, both as a parent and an environmental scientist, that:

  • We all need healthy ecosystems to survive
  • Children need direct exposure to nature for healthy childhood development
  • Our future depends upon successfully connecting children to nature, teaching them to care about it, and then encouraging them to pursue careers that will actively develop sustainable/regenerative solutions for peaceful co-habitation of the planet for generations to come.

With this hope for the future in mind we are donating a Schoolyard Habitat to one VT school in Chittenden or Addison County, to be selected through a sweepstakes contest (see below for details).  The Schoolyard Habitat program was developed by the National Wildlife Federation (NWF) and here in VT, Liz Soper leads the charge.  She is NWF’s Associate Director of Eco-Schools USA which is a school based program to green K-12 schools across the nation.  Prior to directing Eco-Schools USA she worked directly with local communities to help protect and enhance wildlife habitat and implement NWF’s Backyard and Schoolyard Habitat programs.  Since she obviously knows the ins-and-outs we will be consulting with Liz before we design and build the Schoolyard Habitat that we donate.

schoolyardsign Schoolyard Habitats, Outdoor Classrooms & Natural Play Spaces

Schoolyard Habitats are similar to the Wildlife Habitats that we install for clients and then NWF certifies.  They must include the same basic features - Food, Water, Cover, Places to Raise Young, and may also incorporate Sustainable Gardening features such as compost bins, raised vegetable beds and other container gardens.  The Schoolyard Habitat is coupled with curriculum and a maintenance plan to keep the students, teachers and community involved and assure its long-term success.

The design will be tailored to meet the needs of the school, the interests of its members and the challenges of the site.  The value of the design and installation of the Schoolyard Habitat that we are donating is $2,000 ($500 plants, $500 other materials, $1,000 labor) and could include:

  • native plants that provide food and shelter for wildlife including birds and butterflies,
  • supplies such as feeders, a birdbath, and bird houses,
  • a compost bin,
  • a raised bed, and
  • pathways and seating made out of natural materials such as mulch, stumps and boulders.

If you live in Addison or Chittenden County VT and would like to have a Schoolyard Habitat at your school then either send me an EMAIL (lindenlandscaping@gmavt.net) or visit our FACEBOOK PAGE TO ENTER the sweepstakes.  The deadline is May 6th and the schoolyard will be installed in September 2013.  The more parents in your town that enter, the greater your chances are of your school being picked, so share with gusto!

tree seating 300x201 Schoolyard Habitats, Outdoor Classrooms & Natural Play Spaces

More resources for Outdoor classrooms/playgrounds -

Spring Cleaning for Walkways and Patios

paver path ferns Spring Cleaning for Walkways and Patios

If your flatwork (stone or concrete paver walkway or patio) is more than 5 years old then it may be time for a Hardscaping Tune-Up.  If the base materials have been damaged (the surface has settled or you can glimpse hollow areas between or under stones) then you probably need a renovation.  Let’s tackle the easier problem first.

It’s very common to see moss in grout lines, joint sand that has deteriorated, and stains on the surface which can range from a uniform dark layer (algae), to rust, a white efflorescence (minerals), or the occasional grease spot (the cheeseburger you dropped during the last party).  Not to worry – a Tune-Up for your hardscapes can be done in a day or two and shouldn’t break the bank.  If you have one or two cracked stones, then they can be replaced at the same time.  Here’s a step-by-step description of the process:

1) Remove old loose grout or joint sand –  using a shop-vac the old joint sand gets vacuumed out, and a scraping tool is used to remove any bits that have adhered to the edges.  Care must be taken not to chip the edges of natural stone pavers or disturb the base material under the pavers.

2) Clean the surface – a biological cleaner is sprayed on with a pump sprayer, scrubbed by hand with a stiff brush being careful not to scratch the stone, and then powerwashed off.  This process may need to be repeated one or even two times, or a specific product chosen to remove the type of staining present.  Most biological products will remove moss and algae, and a more acidic cleaner may be needed to neutralize white mineral deposits.  Whatever product is chosen it should be EPA approved, be biodegradable, phosphate free, and not damage surrounding plants.

3) Allow it to dry thoroughly – this is really important because if the pavers are wet going into the next step then the glue in the polymeric sand will activate and stick to the surface of your pavers and not come off.  So we try to pick hot sunny days with a gentle breeze for Hardscaping Tune-Ups.  If Mother Nature isn’t cooperating then a blower can be used to dry the surface.

4) Re-sand the joints – Polymeric sands have come a long way in the last few years.  (A polymeric sand is a sand that contains a powdered glue that activates with water and then dries hard to the touch – they are still flexible enough to resist cracking but help repel weeds and ants.  They replace traditional mortared joints that crack here in the north country when it freezes).  The first polymeric sands that were introduced to the market were tricky and often the glue separated and floated to the surface leaving a strip of rubber that would peel off and sand below that would wash out easily.  Now they are tougher, more consistent, and last longer, so if you’ve had joints that have failed, it’s worth trying again with new product.  But be careful, there are now totally impermeable joint sands, which have their place around pools, but can cause puddling on patios and walkways, so be sure to select the right sand for your application.

5) Seal the surface and joints – once the surface is clean and dry and the joints are filled, you can choose to go one step further and seal it.  Applying sealer or “enhancer” with a sprayer or roller is optional but it can protect your investment and lengthen the time until the next Tune-Up is needed.  Depending upon the product used, it can either deepen the color or keep it transparent and matte.  Either way they will help repel moisture so moss and algae aren’t as tempted to take up residence, and will protect the surface from grease stains and salt damage.

hardscape Spring Cleaning for Walkways and Patios

So that’s it – five steps that breathe new life into worn hardscapes and help make them look new again – easily one of the biggest bangs for your buck in the landscape.

Ten Tips for Selling a House from the Outside In

front walkway Ten Tips for Selling a House from the Outside In

I have several friends who are trying to sell their homes right now – and they are finding that it’s not as easy as they were hoping it might be – it’s a buyers market after all.  Making a house appealing to a buyer is as much about psychology as it is about the price tag, and whole books have been written about how to stage a house to sell.  Yet, the first thing that a potential buyer sees is the outside of a house – not just the siding or the color of the door, but the landscape.  So, how do you stage the landscape to sell a house?

Spring is traditionally the start of the real estate season.  March 20th is technically the first day of spring, but here in Vermont you’re more likely to see brown mud than blooming flowers.  The snow is melting, leaving brown piles along the driveway, there’s gravel spray from the plow everywhere, the lawn has tunnels from the winter escapades of voles, and the bulbs and early perennials are still sleeping. Hmm, not exactly picture perfect.  Take heart, there is an upside to mud season – when everybody’s yard is suffering a similar fate, your clean-up efforts will be especially noticeable, and once spring gets underway the plan you put into action now for your landscape will pay off in spades.  Speaking of payoff, consider that the effort and investment you put into the landscape can increase a sale by as much as ten percent.  That being said, don’t go overboard – people buying a house want a landscape with “good bones”, that seems easy to care for, and can be tailored to suit their particular style – so you are aiming for the vanilla ice cream of landscapes (just make it Ben & Jerry’s vanilla).

Start by approaching your property as a prospective buyer would, with a drive-by, and ask yourself (or an honest friend) what jumps out at you.  People scanning a space see edges and shapes first – so if the edges of the lawns and planting beds are crisp and well defined, and spaces (gardens, porches) are not cluttered with too many objects, it puts people at ease.  Then you can worry about adding a simple color scheme to tie it all together.  First, concentrate on what breaks a sense of order – Is the mailbox or fence askew, are the trash cans visible, is there an old hedge that’s hiding the front door?  Then park as a guest would and walk to the front door – what do you see (or not see)?  Is the walkway broken, flooded, mossy or weedy?  Is the porch or entryway welcoming?  Are the planting beds too sparse or overgrown?  The backyard is also important, but not nearly as important as the front approach, so let’s start there.

Here are our tips for increasing your curb appeal:

white border planting 300x237 Ten Tips for Selling a House from the Outside In1) Clean up the Driveway – many driveways in Vermont are crushed stone, and usually look pretty worn by spring.  Give it an almost instant makeover by having it power-raked and topdressed.  The end of the driveway closest to the garage and guest parking areas can be defined with cobblestone edging, or a paver parking pad can be installed – a quick installation that makes a big impact as people get out of the car.  If there’s a narrow area that can be planted to soften the hardscape – go for it.

2) Get a Professional Spring Garden Clean-up – you can see a complete description of what activities this encompasses, but at a minimum you need to cut fresh bed edges, weed, and spread a fresh layer of natural mulch or compost.  Be realistic, if you don’t have time yourself, hire somebody to come back once a month to keep it looking neat until the house sells.  A few scheduled hours go a long ways.

container flower 253x300 Ten Tips for Selling a House from the Outside In3) Add Instant color – Plant some containers and add a simple band of annual color to front foundation plantings or a walkway – at a minimum have some color on the porch and by the doors.  Keep it simple though, just one or two colors and rely on interesting foliage. I find that more people have love/hate reactions to warm flower colors (red-orange-gold) and are more universally accepting of cool colors (blue-white-green) so these would be a safer bet, but pick a scheme that blends with your house.

4)  Prune or remove overgrown shrubs – nothing dates a house and looks more overwhelming to a prospective buyer than a yew hedge that was planted in the 60′s and now covers the front of the house and blocks the windows.  Ditto for half-dead, short-lived, diseased, or messy trees, or anything that was planted too close to the house.

5) Remove Personal Adornments – You may love your collection of garden gnomes, whirligigs, children’s art projects, flags, toys etc., but a future buyer may not.  This can be hard for some homeowners to swallow, but trust me, you can find a new place for them in your next landscape but for now they should be lovingly stored.  The same goes for decorative edging around garden beds.

hydrangea fence 300x225 Ten Tips for Selling a House from the Outside In6) Renovate Overgrown Perennial Beds – if you once had a fabulous cottage-style perennial garden but somehow it turned into a monster when you weren’t looking, it might be time to rip it out (don’t feel bad, it happens to all of us).  One solution is to plant some simple Hydrangeas, ornamental grasses, and a border of annual color and call it good.  Beds need to look easy to maintain and not like a backache waiting to happen.  That being said, if you have a cottage-style garden that is well maintained and is colorful year-round, congratulations – romantic gardens are still the #1 requested garden style.

7) Clean Water features – make sure they are sparkling clean, full and running.  If this isn’t possible, it’s better to remove them. If it’s not an obviously positive feature of the landscape then it is certain to look like a liability.

paver walkway 225x300 Ten Tips for Selling a House from the Outside In8) Tune-Up Walkways and Patios – if your hardscaping is more than 5 years old it’s very common to see moss in grout lines, joint sand that has deteriorated, and stains on the surface which can range from a uniform dark layer (algae), to rust, a white efflorescence (minerals), or the occasional grease spot (the cheeseburger you dropped during the last party).  Not to worry – a spring cleanup for your hardscapes is needed and can be done in a day or two.  If you have one or two cracked stones, then they can be replaced at the same time.  I’ll write a separate post about the hardscaping clean-up process, but basically the joint sand gets vacuumed out, the pavers get scrubbed with a biological cleaner, then after the stone surface is fully dried, the joints get re-sanded.  As an option the entire surface can be sealed, which depending upon the product used, can either deepen the color or keep it transparent and matte.  Voila – your walkway and/or patio looks brand new again.

9) Create a Care Manual – if you have an extensive landscape, (not one easily labeled as low-maintenance) you can reduce a buyer’s trepidation by showing them that you have a system of maintenance that they can easily adopt.  People are afraid of the unknown – so give them information in digestible pieces in the form of a binder that contains a landscape plan, a list of plants with photos and care instructions, a diagram of your irrigation system and lighting, and a list of contacts including your landscape designer, maintenance company, irrigation and lighting, arborist, pool company etc.  A Care Manual is something that I have created for homeowners in the past, even if I didn’t design their landscapes, and it doesn’t necessarily have to include a full property plan, but should include a list of plants, photos, care instructions and contacts.

front entryway 300x288 Ten Tips for Selling a House from the Outside In10)  Details – Once you’ve tackled the landscape checklist above, then you can focus on the outside of the house – powerwash the siding, paint the front door, install a new mailbox or house lettering, lay down a new doormat, and/or plant a window box.

All of these activities will make your house looked loved – which is the first step towards getting a prospective buyer to think that they will love it too.  Good Luck!

 

Creating Privacy with Living Fences

IMG 1038 Creating Privacy with Living Fences

I have nothing against a wood fence, really.  There are times when clients need fast-fixes (no time for plants to fill in) or there’s a safety issue (pool, cliff) where something solid is necessary, and wood or metal is the way to go.  But many times a living fence, whether it’s a hedge, vine or espalier has the potential to provide more benefits than an inanimate object.  Living fences can be:

  • native plants that provide food for pollinators, birds, and other creatures
  • provide shelter (my hedgerow in the pasture is always full of life)
  • dynamic and always changing as they grow
  • a source of tasty snacks for humans (berries or fruit)
  • soft or thorny, depending upon the goal.

In Vermont we commonly see soldierly rows of Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) and they certainly have their place – they are rugged, native, tolerant of a wide variety of conditions, and are an evergreen so they provide screening year-round.

chester blackberry 150x150 Creating Privacy with Living FencesI love it however, when I have the opportunity to try other options.  One plant we have had good luck with here at the farm is the thornless blackberry ‘Chester’ – it’s a Zone 5 plant but it is incredibly vigorous, and the fruit is an added bonus.  We get our stock from Nourse Farms.  The canes reach heights of 8 feet within a single season and are flexible enough for weaving.  Next year I’m going to experiment with creating a woven fence using Chester plants similar to how Osage Orange is used for creating living fences – Mother Earth News recently had a good article that described the technique.

The top photo shows a really neat hybrid living fence design, called The Living Wall, which can be seen at the Burlington International Airport (BIA). The Living Wall is a company based in Toronto that has developed a wall system that can be filled with soil and also acts as a sound barrier.  Here’s a link to photos of the construction of the wall at BIA.  Here are some close up photos I took while visiting the wall with Michael Lawrence, the landscape architect that specified the system during BIA’s last set of improvements.  It’s a wood/poly fabric wall sandwich, filled with soil and then “planted” with willow cuttings that grow to cover the surface and can be sheared.  I will be looking for opportunities to try out the system in other locations in the Champlain Valley this season.

 

The New Holy Trinity – Front Yard Food, Backyard Biodiversity, & Green Buildings

GW Solar home1 185x300 The New Holy Trinity   Front Yard Food, Backyard Biodiversity, & Green Buildings

I had an enlightening conversation last week with assistant professor Adele Ashkar, director of the George Washington (GW) University’s Sustainable Landscape Design programs while attending the ELA conference.  GW worked with the Team Capitol DC Solar Decathlon to integrate a sustainable landscape into their house design.  While traditionally the Solar Decathalon has just been about designing and building a solar house, GW fought hard to get a landscape budget allowance for their entry titled “Harvest Home”.  It incorporates both food production and native plants for increasing biodiversity into the design as well as rainwater capture and grey water recycling.  Very cool.

Of course I still have to root for our strong and talented local Middlebury College team (their entry is called “Insight – A Home on the Path to Local Living”), but I am encouraged by the GW design all the same.  It’s a great example of regenerative design and addresses the fact that we live both in a structure and the surrounding landscape.   I strongly believe that our long-term survival will depend on our ability to “live smaller” and integrate our human housing with the habitats of other life.  More than half (57%) of our total acreage in this country is covered in suburban/urban developments, and 92% of that landscape is lawn and exotic decorative species that are inedible – lawn and Bradford Pear trees are not a habitat for anything.  We need to be actively engaged in putting back “high value” native plants and edibles that support life, period.  I hope more Solar Decathalon teams begin to incorporate sustainable landscape systems into their designs.

Adele Ashkar says: “Sustainable landscape design is one of the newest soldiers in our ecological army. Sustainable landscapes employ best management practices for conservation of natural resources, while satisfying current needs and not jeopardizing the needs of tomorrow’s generations.”  Amen.

Here’s more information about growing ‘Front Yard Food’ from our blog post “Oh My, Is that 850 lbs. of Veggies Growing in Your Yard”, and more about ‘Backyard Biodiversity’ in Nativars – Having Our Cake and Letting Wildlife Eat Too.

Here’s a video of Middlebury College’s Solar Decathlon Design:

When can we move in?

Protect Your Landscape – Plan for Maintenance

boxwood border 300x271 Protect Your Landscape   Plan for MaintenanceI’m all for going “wild” and letting our hair down (you know me, I’m not exactly high maintenance) but there are limits to how functional a built landscape can be if you just let it go.  For one, invasive plants have a sneaky way of ruining even the best laid naturalistic plans, and I abhor the brutes for many reasons and refuse to let them win a garden competition, so it’s best to have a maintenance plan.  In client meetings I see a wide array of definitions of the word “natural”, but at a minimum most people prefer to see lines, edges and recognizable forms in their designed landscapes.  I believe that regardless of your personal style, whether you prefer loose meadows, formal clipped hedges, or a small outdoor living room, landscapes can be designed that reclaim habitats and still reflect a client’s need for order and bold expression.  That being said it’s important to understand the maintenance required to preserve the style and features that you choose, and the associated costs.

When a client tells me they want a “low maintenance” landscape I tell them that they can
either increase their tolerance for wilderness, or reduce the size of their cultivated landscape and include hardscapes, or both.  If your design includes a lot of hardscapes (stone patios, walkways, etc.) it will have a higher per square foot cost initially compared to softscapes (lawns, planting beds) but a much lower annual maintenance cost, and in the end they probably even out.

The lowest maintenance landscape, and one of the most sustainable, is a house in the Continue reading